By Michelle Lerner

The problem with first episodes of reality shows is that all the contestants seem interchangeable; they are fresh-faced, eager and on their best behavior. This is especially true on Bravo reality shows like TOP CHEF, because only on Bravo would there be not one, but two contestants with mohawks. It doesn’t matter that one is a guy and one is a girl; I still can’t tell them apart. Or the two burly guys with New York accents —  though one did make me laugh when he warned Michah that she better not boss him.

This year it seems as though the cheftesants, as Bravo insists on calling them, truly have brought their A-game. Every contestant is a sous- or executive chef, a private chef, or runs a catering business. It is a pretty impressive bunch. No home cooks or weird vegan organic types. And the food looked good! I had a pretty big dinner, but by the end of the show, I kind of had a hankering for geoduck.

My favorites at this early stage in the game are: Sara M., who has worked in Miami with the famous chef Michelle Bernstein; Hung, from Guy Savoy in Vegas, who seems poised to be this season’s Marcel, but with an actual palate; and Lia, an executive sous-chef at Jean-Georges, one of the best restaurants in New York City. My dark horse pick is Tre, the self-taught Texan; he’s scrappy and has heart. I don’t like ostrich, but I really wanted to try his game-spiced seared version.

I do have a bone to pick with the producers. The show was an unnecessary hour and 15 minutes long. Do you really think we needed the home-porno shots of the contestants’ living quarters? I know that trend started with THE REAL WORLD on MTV, but come on. These people are professionals — why do we have to “oooh” and “ahhh” over where they live? I’m sure it is part of the deal you made with the hotel that puts up the cast, but it’s boring and wastes time. We want to see the cooking.

The judges are all in fine form. I liked how happy Gail Simmons was with the quality of the food. She’s a tough lady to please. Padma Lakshmi is fine —  better then that Joel girl —  though her forced sexiness can be a little grating. Tom Colicchio really sets the bar for reality show judging; he’s honest, intelligent and actually knows what he's talking about. Anthony Bourdain is, as always, a very welcome presence. When he asks one bottom-rung chef what his “malfunction” is, I thought the poor guy was going to cry. But, he actually answered well, giving Tony a little of his own wisdom, and quoting Bourdain’s book, “Kitchen Confidential,” back to him. All in all, TOP CHEF is off to a nice, simmering start.